I have reached a point in my hike where I realize that I sleep better in the wilderness than at a hotel. While my bed at Vermillion Valley Resort was objectively more comfortable than my 3-inch sleeping pad, I’m a warm sleeper and always end up sweating in hotel beds. I love the fresh air… Read More »Day 58: Mile 878.7 (VVR) to 884.4
Today was by far my biggest day in the Sierras so far, covering 26 miles with an elevation gain of approximately 4,000 ft. I woke up around 5:30 am, ready for a race against the clock. Time was of the essence if I wanted to reach Selden Pass, located 12 miles further north, while the… Read More »Day 57: Mile 853.1 to 874.5 (Bear Ridge/VVR) through Selden Pass
Achievement unlocked! I sat inside the John Muir shelter at Muir Pass. After a quick breakfast, I left my glorious campsite by the Middle Forks Kings River, filled with excitement for the journey ahead. At 11,970 feet of elevation, Muir Pass may not be the highest or most challenging Sierra Nevada high pass, but it’s… Read More »Day 56: Mile 835.0 to 853.1 through Muir Pass
I woke up at 6am—after one of my longest nights on trail—to a dusting of snow on my tent and heavy fog. I was still alone at my improvised campsite, and the weather looked menacing. I had to make a decision: should I stay sheltered or should I attempt to tackle the fear-inducing Mather Pass… Read More »Day 55: Mile 815.6 to 835.0 through Mather Pass
I woke up around 5:15 am with the intention of tackling Pinchot Pass while the snow was still firm. The temperature was extremely low; reaching freezing point. I emerged from the comfort of my cozy quilt to the harsh impact of the biting cold. My fingers immediately turned numb, and even the simplest task of… Read More »Day 54: Mile 804.4 to 815.6 through Pinchot Pass
I woke up early to tackle Glen Pass while the snow was still firm. The pass lay just a mile north of my campsite, but the final approach involved a steep 1,000-foot climb. Fortunately, the ascent was mostly free of snow and felt easy after a long and restful night. My mind was already focused… Read More »Day 53: Mile 790.0 to 804.4 through Glen Pass
After enjoying a triple zero in Bishop, CA, I am finally back on trail. Getting back to the Onion Valley trailhead was much easier than my journey to Bishop, thanks to the weekday bus service between Bishop and Independence. For the final 15 miles to the trailhead, I had organized a ride with a local… Read More »Day 52: Mile 788.9 (Kearsage Pass junction) to 790.0 + Kearsage Pass Trail
While I never planned on taking a triple zero in Bishop, CA, this unexpected break was a chance for my body to rest and heal. My feet have recovered incredibly fast, although my fingers still have minor cuts and bruises. Tonight, I’m staying at Eastside Guesthouse, a genuinely lovely hostel that’s much cleaner and more… Read More »Day 51: Zero in Bishop, CA
The Bishop area is well known for hiking and climbing opportunities, and there are no fewer than four outfitters within a 4-block radius. I took advantage of my second zero day to fine tune my gear a bit. I sent a few items back home to shed weight. For example, instead of an inflatable pillow,… Read More »Day 50: Zero in Bishop, CA
Bishop is pretty nice as far as small towns are concerned. The charming town center features Old West facades, murals, several outfitters, and various dining venues. Several major grocery stores are located a mile away from the historic center. After spending the night at the Best Western, I moved to Hostel California, a popular PCT… Read More »Day 49: Zero in Bishop, CA
As I drifted off to sleep yesterday night, a hint of anxiety lingered in my mind. What would my experience be like ascending Forester Pass, the highest point of the Pacific Crest Trail? And more importantly, how would I fare descending the potentially treacherous northern side, still blanketed in snow? Today turned out to be… Read More »Day 48: Mile 774.7 to 788.9 (Kearsage Pass junction) through Forester Pass + Kearsage Pass Trail (Bishop, CA)
My alarm woke me up shortly after midnight, and I emerged from my quilt in a daze. I did not get much sleep—some hikers were up chatting near my tent until “late” in the afternoon. I had a quick breakfast while assembling the basic essentials for my night-time expedition to the summit of Mount Whitney:… Read More »Day 47: Mile 766.3 (Whitney Creek/Mt. Whitney Crabtree Ranger Station) to 774.7 + Mt. Whitney
Today’s 10-mile stretch to the Mt. Whitney “base camp” (officially known as the Crabtree Ranger Station campsite) was short but demanding. In the morning, the trail descended gently towards Rock Creek, steadily losing elevation over four miles. The conditions were perfect: we were blessed with comfortable temperatures and a cloudless sky. Shortly before Rock Creek,… Read More »Day 46: Mile 756.5 to 766.3 (Whitney Creek/Mt. Whitney Crabtree Ranger Station)
Today’s stretch was relatively easy. We covered a distance of over 21 miles with an elevation gain of only 2,694 feet. The trail was smooth and well graded all along. I started hiking leisurely at 7am. The sun was already up, shining brightly on a perfectly cloudless day. In the morning, we hiked through Mulkey… Read More »Day 45: Mile 735.1 to 756.5
My first night in the Sierra Nevada was bliss, but I can already tell that cool temperatures will add another challenge to my already slow and tedious morning routine! As we hiked north of Monache Meadow, the trail gained altitude rapidly and we arrived at the junction with the Olancha Pass Trail. Although my maps… Read More »Day 44: Mile 716.5 (Kern River/Monache Meadow) to 735.1
Breakfast “service” at the Kennedy Meadows General Store was on par with dinner: slow and disorganized. While Grumpy’s churns out huge breakfasts from their professional kitchen like clockwork, the General Store employs a single staff member who cooks on a tiny grill. The “all-you-can-eat” offer also turned out to be a scam, since the “kitchen”… Read More »Day 43: Mile 702.2 (Kennedy Meadows, CA) to 716.5 (Kern River/Monache Meadow)
Kennedy Meadows, CA, is quite the experience. The community is literally off the grid, and the closest “town,” Inyokern, is merely designated as a census-designated place and an hour away by car. According to the official sign, Kennedy Meadows is home to 200 residents, but locals say there are only 70, and the 2020 United… Read More »Day 42: Zero in Kennedy Meadows, CA
Today, the first chapter of my Pacific Crest Trail thru-hike closed. I completed the South California section of the PCT and reached Kennedy Meadows, CA, the gateway to the High Sierra Nevada mountain range. Joe, Michael, and I left camp at 6:30am this morning, uncertain of our destination for the day. Kennedy Meadows was still… Read More »Day 41: Mile 676.2 to 702.2 (Kennedy Meadows, CA)
Thru-hiking isn’t just grand views and big miles. The real drama happens in town. Case in point, I lost one of my gloves while doing laundry yesterday afternoon. This traumatic incident kept me up at night—I pride myself in being extremely organized and can’t stand the thought of losing anything. After replaying every possible scenario… Read More »Day 40: Mile 652.1 (Walker Pass/Ridgecrest, CA) to 676.2
I hiked 14 miles to Walker Pass today, which now feels short to me. It’s funny how my definition of ‘short’ has changed in just 39 days! I woke up around 6am, while Joe, and Michael hit the ground running at the crack of dawn, but I still managed to perform a 10 before 10… Read More »Day 39: Mile 638.4 to 652.1 (Walker Pass/Ridgecrest, CA)
I might be approaching the Sierras, but the desert once again unleashed its might and fury today. Without the generosity and dedication of trail angels, carrying water for 40 miles would have been a challenge. I started my day descending into Butterbredt Canyon. Although the path was relatively smooth and well-maintained, my hike was punctuated… Read More »Day 38: Mile 608.9 (Landers Campground) to 638.4
Today felt like a repeat of yesterday—this segment was long, arduous, and overall unremarkable. It was cold this morning, and I started hiking with all my layers: my sun hoodie, my alpaca sweater, my rain jacket, and my puffy. After several hours, I finally turned my back on the last wind farm. I think I’ll… Read More »Day 37: Mile 583.3 (Golden Oaks Spring) to 608.9 (Landers Campground)
I am back on trail after a double zero in Tehachapi, CA, and once again, I dodged a weather event. Yesterday’s forecast called for persistent fog, low temperatures, and a wind advisory. A wind advisory while hiking through wind farms is a dreadful prospect. However, lower temperatures are generally a blessing. In any case, the… Read More »Day 36: Mile 558.5 (Willow Springs Road/Tehachapi) to 583.3 (Golden Oaks Spring)
Day two of my double-zero in Tehachapi, CA was a lazy day. We relaxed at the pool and drank beer in the hot tub. That’s officially against the rules, but the hotel is decidedly hiker friendly—they even have a hiker box in the lobby—and the staff didn’t bat an eye. Joe, Michael, and I bid… Read More »Day 35: Zero in Tehachapi, CA
Today is day one of my unscheduled double zero in Tehachapi, CA! I was supposed to arrive in the afternoon, but made it a day early after crushing 40+ miles yesterday. Mountain views aside, Tehachapi is as bland, uninspiring, and boring as possible—the epitome of the American suburban nightmare. The town center boasts a Walmart… Read More »Day 34: Zero in Tehachapi, CA
Today, I walked 12 hours, hiked 41 miles, and climbed over 6,200 ft with a full pack, easily surpassing my previous 35 mile personal record with just a day pack. I am thrilled with my accomplishment. I woke up at the wee hour of 2:30am at Hikertown, gulped down a cup of cold coffee and… Read More »Day 33: Mile 517.6 (Highway 138/Hikertown) to 558.5 (Willow Springs Road/Tehachapi)
Today’s 10-mile jaunt took me to Hikertown, a quirky unofficial hiker hostel located next to the trail near Neenach, CA. Hikertown is a popular stop on the Pacific Crest Trail: it is not only a convenient resupply stop, but also a place to regroup, both physically and mentally, ahead of the daunting Aqueduct walk through… Read More »Day 32: Mile 508.1 (Horse Trail Camp) to 517.6 (Highway 138/Hikertown)
We got up early and started hiking at the crack of dawn in an effort to beat the heat. The early morning stretch was uneventful, with typical desert views. The trail climbed steadily, but thanks to a few strategically-located water tanks, I was able to minimize the weight of my pack. Soon, the landscape shifted… Read More »Day 31: Mile 485.8 (Lake Hughes Road) to 508.1 (Horse Trail Camp)
Thru-hiking is roller coaster, literally and figuratively. While we were tired and demotivated yesterday evening after a boring and painful road walk, I woke up in excellent spirits this morning. I was energized, both physically and mentally. I credit yesterday’s indulgence at the Mexican restaurant in Agua Dulce! I took the lead and was soon… Read More »Day 30: Mile 462.8 to 485.8 (Lake Hughes Road)
We returned to the trail after an enjoyable night at LA RV Resort in the comfort of our private cabin. As we left the RV park, we crossed the infamous train track that hugs the campground. I realized that the right of way belongs to the Metrolink network, the suburban Los Angeles rail service. Somehow,… Read More »Day 29: Mile 444.3 (Acton, CA) to 462.8
We woke up on this beautiful May Day to a mixture of excitement and a hint of dread ahead of our arrival in Acton, CA. While the prospect of a hot shower and laundry is sure to brighten up any hiker’s day, the private campground where we will be staying overnight has a terrible reputation.… Read More »Day 28: Mile 430.4 (Messenger Flat Camp) to 444.3 (Acton, CA)