After a restful night at the Trout Lake Valley Inn, I enjoyed a simple but hearty breakfast, then caught the first shuttle back to the trailhead. Trout Lake ranks as one of my favorite trail towns; I’ve enjoyed the locals’ genuine hospitality, the excellent resupply, and the relaxing scenery. I’m also glad I had the… Read More »Day 117: Mile 2229.9 (FS 23/Trout Lake, WA) to 2254.7
Today was a “nero” day, which stands for “near zero miles hiked.” I woke up early and covered a quick but steep 5 miles to reach Forest Road 23, where I caught the first shuttle to Trout Lake, WA. Trout Lake is known for being extremely hiker-friendly, and a group of local volunteers graciously runs… Read More »Day 116: Mile 2224.8 (Trout Lake Creek) to 2229.9 (FS 23/Trout Lake, WA)
Washington is holding its cards close to its chest. Today’s 24-mile stretch still didn’t feature any major highlights, and I once again spent the day in a “green tunnel.” I don’t mind—I am just days away from the state’s most stunning scenery! The bug situation today was the worst I’ve ever experienced on the entire… Read More »Day 115: Mile 2200.6 (Sheep Lake) to 2224.8 (Trout Lake Creek)
My first night in the state of Washington was eventful. A strange noise woke me up around midnight. While I’m used to the sounds of nature after four months on the trail, this was different. I looked around in a state of daze and confusion, then noticed something moving inside my tent. It was a… Read More »Day 114: Mile 2168.3 to 2200.6 (Sheep Lake)
I began my last day in Oregon with a hearty breakfast. Ideally, I would have left at the crack of dawn to beat the heat—temperatures were predicted to reach 100°F around noon—but the hotel’s breakfast service didn’t start until 7 am. And breakfast is the most important meal of the day. At 7:45am, I checked… Read More »Day 113: Mile 2148.2 (Cascade Locks, OR/Bridge of the Gods) to 2168.3
I woke up in the Wahtum Lake Campground parking lot, surrounded by a cloud of mosquitoes that seemed to be having an impromptu gathering. I swatted a few for good measure, packed up my gear, and then made my way back down to the trail while pondering how through hiking has shaped my perspective. Less… Read More »Day 112: Mile 2131.6 (Wahtum Lake Campground) to 2148.2 (Cascade Locks, OR/Bridge of the Gods)
I approached today’s stretch with somewhat low expectations, knowing that the highlights of Oregon are now behind me. Central Oregon was glorious, and my excitement from seeing Mt. Hood for the first time yesterday was hard to top. Today was likely going to be tame in comparison. To spice things up, I decided to follow… Read More »Day 111: Mile 2107.8 to 2131.6 (Wahtum Lake Campground)
The journey from Portland to Timberline Lodge went smoothly. I left my hotel early in the morning, hopped on a streetcar, transferred to MAX light rail, and then took two different buses. The Portland area boasts an excellent transit network, along with an incredibly advanced fare payment system. The bus ride to Timberline Lodge was… Read More »Day 110: Mile 2097.9 (Timberline Junction) to 2107.8
It has been a few weeks since my last zero, so I am thoroughly enjoying my short stay in Portland, OR. Moreover, it feels wonderful to be in a large, functioning city. The slow pace of remote trail towns can be frustrating at times. Visiting Portland feels like a welcome, if temporary, return to civilization.… Read More »Day 109: Zero in Portland, OR
This morning, I walked just four puny little miles to the PCT trailhead at Santiam Pass, the northernmost exit point before the Lionshead fire closure. Along the trail, I witnessed an incredible explosion of beargrass—a beautiful sight to behold. But the highlight of the day was reaching mile marker 2,000! This accomplishment feels a bit… Read More »Day 108: Mile 1997.1 (Big Lake Youth Camp/Santiam Wagon Road) to 2001.0 (Santiam Pass Trailhead)
My night at Matthieu Lake was entirely uneventful. Surprisingly, I was all alone and didn’t get busted for camping illegally! (The campsite is officially off-limits to PCT thru-hikers.) I enjoyed a quick but peaceful breakfast, then collected water for the upcoming 15-mile dry stretch to Big Lake Youth Camp (BLYC), a summer camp just off… Read More »Day 107: Mile 1979.7 (Matthieu Lake) to 1997.1 (Big Lake Youth Camp)
Today, Oregon finally revealed all its glory. From dawn to dusk, incredible scenery unraveled before my eyes. The Three Sisters greeted me from virtually every angle. I marveled at the otherworldly beauty of the black and red lava fields. I took breaks at idyllic mountain streams. I gazed at vast meadows. I strolled through lush… Read More »Day 106: Mile 1952.6 (Elk Lake Resort) to 1979.7 (Matthieu Lake & Scott Pass)
To celebrate my fast progress through Oregon so far, I decided to treat myself to dinner at Elk Lake Resort, which was about 18 miles away from my campsite, including a 1.5-mile side trail. I left Stormy Lake at 6:15 a.m. The first couple of miles were completely flat. While I’m not a morning person… Read More »Day 105: Mile 1935.3 (Stormy Lake) to 1952.6 (Elk Lake Resort)
I should be grateful that the restaurant at Shelver Cove Resort was closed—it allowed me to leave promptly at 6:30am! Besides, eating my own food makes my pack a little lighter 🙂 I rejoined the PCT west of Odell Lake, and the trail immediately started a gentle climb. The morning was glorious. The temperature was… Read More »Day 104: Mile 1906.6 (Shelter Cove) to 1935.3 (Stormy Lake)
I woke up slightly later than usual this morning, anticipating an easy day ahead. A horde of blood-thirsty creatures was already buzzing around, ready to attack the moment I stepped out of my vestibule. As usual, the mosquitoes retreated after hiker midnight yesterday, and resurfaced at the crack of dawn. Answering nature’s call in the… Read More »Day 103: Mile 1878.2 (Windigo Pass) to 1906.6 (Shelter Cove)
I left camp at 6am, a bit earlier than usual, to visit the pit toilet located a few hundreds of yards away at the Highway 138 trailhead. Honestly, this amenity might have contributed to my campsite selection. it was well worth the half-mile detour! Just minutes from my campsite, near Forest Road 961, there was… Read More »Day 102: Mile 1847.9 to 1878.2 (Windigo Pass)
I woke up bright and early in my cozy cabin at Mazama Village within Crater Lake National Park. Although I enjoyed my stay, I once again didn’t sleep as well as I expected. Changes in my routine always seem to alter my sleep pattern. At least there was neither Wi-Fi nor cell phone service to… Read More »Day 101: Mile 1821.7 (Crater Lake National Park Mazama Village/Hwy 62) to 1847.9
It is day 100 of my Pacific Crest Trail adventure and I’m already at the heart of Oregon! I got up around 5am to beat the heat, anticipating a dry 22-mile stretch to Mazama Village at Crater Lake National Park. The morning miles would have been easy and uneventful if it hadn’t been for the… Read More »Day 100: Mile 1799.3 to 1821.7 (Crater Lake NP Mazama Village)
I left my superb campsite at 6:30am, ready to tackle another big day in Oregon. The morning miles were incredibly easy, although quite boring. The trail ascended so gently over four miles that I wasn’t always sure if I was truly climbing. After that, it was mostly flat for the next few hours. The scenery… Read More »Day 99: Mile 1773.6 to 1799.3
After a fantastic night at the luxurious Hyatt Lake Campground, I woke up excited to head north and delve deeper into Oregon. The first seven miles between Hyatt Lake and Howard Prairie Lake were almost entirely flat. I crossed eight dirt roads and eventually arrived at the deserted but paved Eve Springs Road. The rumors… Read More »Day 98: Mile 1742.7 (Hyatt Lake Campground) to 1773.6
Callahan’s Lodge didn’t start serving breakfast until 8am, so I woke up leisurely at 7:30am. It felt a little surreal to wake up on a patch of grass in the middle of a parking lot, near a loud fountain and under a bright streetlight. And yet I slept great. At this point I could sleep… Read More »Day 97: Mile 1718.7 (Callahan’s Lodge/Old Hwy 99) to 1742.7 (Hyatt Lake Campground)
Today was a perfect day for hiking. The conditions were fantastic, the terrain relatively easy, and the views enjoyable for the most part. Early in the morning, I stopped by Donomore Cabin, an old cabin that has been entirely renovated by volunteers and is one of the few shelters along the PCT. A few section… Read More »Day 96: Mile 1687.7 (Bearground Springs) to 1717.7 (Callahan’s Lodge)
My overnight stay by Forest Road 48N20 was uneventful, and I had the (unofficial) campsite all to myself. I woke up early to tackle the 7-mile, 2,700 ft climb to the PCT trailhead at Cook and Green Pass. Although the views were unremarkable, the road was shaded, well graded, and beautifully maintained all the way… Read More »Day 95: Mile ~1661.0 to 1687.7 (Bearground Springs)
I woke up this morning eager to leave the overgrown stretch of trail behind and determined to cover the 13 miles to Seiad Valley as quickly as possible. Thanks to the easy downhill terrain, I picked up a good pace. Soon the clouds dissipated, and the sun timidly appeared and then gradually persisted, which immediately… Read More »Day 94: Mile 1641.5 to ~1661.0
The weather didn’t improve overnight; today marks the third consecutive day of rain. Thankfully, I experienced a brief dry spell this morning, allowing me to pack up my camp quickly and depart at 6:30 am. After a short climb, I caught a faint glimpse of the oddly-named Man Eaten Lake. I hiked under a persistent… Read More »Day 93: Mile 1614.0 (Marten Lake) to 1641.5
Today is a special day for me. It’s not only Independence Day, but it’s also my third trailversary! Time seems to warp on the trail. On the one hand, I feel that I have been hiking forever. I am still in California, albeit just 77 miles from Oregon. On the other hand, the past three… Read More »Day 92: Mile 1599.7 (Etna Summit/Etna, CA) to 1614.0 (Marten Lake)
I woke up this morning to dryer weather, which was a relief. I managed to escape the pull of my quilt and had breakfast before changing into my nasty, still-drenched clothes. While I have a DIY drying line in my tent to air out my clothes, I’ve long learned that nothing ever actually dries up… Read More »Day 91: Mile 1581.3 to 1599.7 (Etna Summit/Etna, CA)
I started hiking at 6:15am, eager to reach the first highlight of the day: a pit toilet situated at an official Forest Service campground near highway 3. I joyfully covered the easy four-mile downhill stretch to the side trail to Scott Mountain Campground and took a short detour through the campground. My thru-hike has given… Read More »Day 90: Mile 1556.0 to 1581.3
I woke up to the sound of heavy drops landing on my tent, and pondered my misfortune with a hint of disbelief, as I wasn’t expecting any precipitation in the morning. As a precaution, I started packing up in a rush, but the rain seemed oddly intermittent. It turned out the drops were tree sap.… Read More »Day 89: Mile 1526.6 (Picayune Spring) to 1556.0